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BLAIR’S YAHRZEIT

The 7th anniversary of my dad’s death–a day my sister Marina and I commemorate with rare meats, vodka and affection. Here is a poem I wrote for this year’s Yom Kippur service:

My mother and father on the yahrzeit wall

You were skeptical
You were atheists
You couldn’t live together
You made new lives apart
Your houses had pianos and record players and books

You were beautiful
You were funny
One of you worried
The other one didn’t
You never really hated each other
25 years after your divorce
You sat in my kitchen together, telling stories

You got old, but not old enough,
And never too old to change
You thought and laughed and talked and cared
Right to the end
For both of you, the end was hard
For one of you it came too soon and you were scared
The other was not afraid to die, but found it inconvenient

And you were both noble and brave
And you loved me
Every day I think of something to tell you

–Robin Chotzinoff

DAY THREE: BEANS. LOTS.

two spatulasCoco and I spent the past three days trying not to argue. I’ve been on a lot of bike rides like this, slogging up hills and rolling down, but never all the way. Up and up and up, if you get my drift. I can’t find the rhythm. My legs burn. I should be getting stronger, but I’m not. Coco isn’t fond of me. She stays out of my way. All is quiet, for what it’s worth.

Bitchiness breaks out the minute we start talking about cooking. We wanted to re-create the salad wraps we used to get at the Baby Greens drive-up before it closed. Oh boy, I think, I can use actual green vegetables. The shopping list in my head includes raw spinach, three kinds of lettuce, perhaps some mint. . .and then Coco informs me that the only thing she ate at Baby Greens was the Chicken Caesar wrap, which contains chicken, croutons, tangy lime dressing and Romaine lettuce.

I get it, I think snarkily: you like Baby Greens as long as it contains no baby greens. I hear myself put that thought into words, and now the gloves are off.  Romaine lettuce is nothing but nutrient-free cardboard, the chain-restaurant of the lettuce family. I’m a big, big food snob. Someone alert the media.

Here’s what Coco yells about: my insincere attachment to quote-unquote healthy food. Apparently I forgot that talk of “good” and “bad” foods can be triggering to a person with an eating disorder. Indeed I’ve had my finger on that trigger for two months. I laughed when Jerry Seinfeld’s wife wrote a  book about sneaking vegetables into her kids’ dinners, but I’m not laughing now. I really, really don’t want to spend an afternoon with a bunch of Romaine lettuce. And Coco really, really doesn’t want to eat a bunch of nutrient-rich grass.

My-lettuce-beats-your-lettuce is a pretty lame argument when you come right down to it. It lasts fifteen minutes. Now it’s time to cook.

Last week we crockpotted almost a gallon of black beans. Today, we’re re-frying them, stuffing them into burritos and bean burgers. Halfway in, I understand that making your own frijoles is one of those inane things I do, like shaking mulberries out of the tree onto a tarp and painstakingly separating the berries from the schmutz in order to make completely tasteless jam. It’s actually okay to use canned black beans, I think. But do I tell Coco? Not yet. I have my pride to consider. A pile of freezer-wrapped burritos rises on the counter.

Tonight after dinner we’ll work on the recipe notebook she’s planning to take back to Dallas.

“Put in that margarita recipe,” she reminds me. Ah yes, the Margarita of the Ex-Wife of the Ex-Husband. A classic booze concoction, full of romance and longing. (And frozen limeade and Old Milwaukee beer.) I’m proud to have it included. Also my Dad’s Chinese pork buns and sesame noodles, my husband’s salmon burgers and all my permutations of roasted vegetables.

“Matt will think I’ve turned into a completely different person,” she says, with a spatula in each hand and two frying pans going at once. “After chopping so many onions this week, I have moved goggles to the top of my long kitchen wish list.”

Ooooh, a kitchen wish list! My father checked so many things off mine—the KitchenAid mixer, the chef’s choice knife sharpener, the syrupy balsamic vinegar, the Chinese cleaver, the coolers of steak he sent my husband on major holidays.

I ask what else is on the list.

“A melon baller! A food processor. A knife roll, with all my knives in it, all chef-worthy!”

“Do you have any knives?”

“Crappy Big Lots ones. . .”

Coco took me to Big Lots last year–right as her BED was getting bad, although I didn’t know it at the time. It was a big store, filled with big lots of crap. I walked around hoping I wanted something there because it was so cheap, and, as my Dad used to say, more is better. But more crap?

“Do you go to Big Lots anymore?” I ask.

“No,” she says. “I just don’t.”

Here’s a picture of Coco’s hands covered in re-fried black beans. If I don’t include it, she says, no one will believe she did it.

dirty hands

DAY TWO: HOT OVEN

challahThis morning we break open a 5-pound bag of unbleached flour and spend the rest of the day getting it all over our clothes, hands and hair—and even into some bread. I don’t do this every week or even every month, but I do like to bake a whole lotta challah once in a while. We’ll make enough to fill Coco’s little freezer back in Dallas and have some left over for tonight’s Shabbat.

Oh, so heart-warming. Maternal stirrings, baking bread, fond memories of childhood.

Coco says “I’m going to make mini-challahs so I don’t run the risk of defrosting a big one and eating the whole thing.” I’m impressed she’s thought it out that far, but what pessimism. Here we are, playing with dough, like Play-Doh, like childhood activities for happy children. Yet somehow Coco has turned into the finicky toddler she never was. The yeast floating on the warm water—gross. Yech. The egg white slipping off the shell.

This is weird. My own childhood memories are rising. The year I was six and people kept putting disgusting food in front of me and I had to sit there until I ate it, or at least tried just one bite. Tomato soup and hot cocoa with a skin. Little gnarls of lamb chop. That was the year my parents divorced and my grandfather died of leukemia. My appetite came back, and it’s good to have an appetite, but like a lot of people I seem to have been born with no innate sense of when to stop eating, drinking, drugging. . .even playing the minesweeper game that used to come pre-installed on computers.

On occasion Coco says “it’s all so easy for you. I don’t care what you say, you never had a problem with ED.”

Well, it depends on who you’re calling ED. Most people think an eating disorder is either anorexia or bulimia. No one talks about binge eating disorder–BED. If you’re not a BED person, you have no idea how much food someone can eat at one sitting, how isolated they become, numbing themselves with food and lying about it, hating their expanding bodies and never talking about it.

Not talking about it is a big BED theme. Hallmark movies aren’t made about BED. The Binge Eating Disorder Association dates all the way back to 2008. The DSM-V mentioned BED for the first time in 2010, decades after the other EDs, but it’s still not “official.” Give me a break. According to the Mayo Clinic, “although binge eating disorder is the most common of all eating disorders, it’s still not considered a distinct psychiatric condition.”

BED tops the list of Things I Never Wanted For My Child, but she got it anyway.

“Remember all those challahs you made for you bat mitzvah?” I ask.

“Kind of.”

“Remember when you made that movie about Genghis Khan in second grade?”

“Kind of.”

“Remember when we rented that crab boat on the Oregon Coast and cooked the crabs on the beach and you were squatting on a piece of driftwood chewing on a crab leg, like a little aborigine? I was pregnant with Gus. You were eight. Remember?”

Kind of, but she does remember playing in the Pacific Ocean on that trip. Now we face each other on opposite sides of the kitchen island, fists sunk in mountains of dough, kneading, rolling and braiding.

“The dough’s so golden-y,” Coco says. “When you thump it, it sounds like a ripe watermelon.” It’s not that gross after all. It’s bread, and it’s fun. Maybe I can restore all the fun, good, simple memories that were somehow erased from Coco’s hard drive by ED, life, or something worse. I tell one Little Coco story after another. Little Coco was one hell of a conversationalist. She makes Big Coco laugh.

Big Coco bustles around the kitchen. I hear finished loaves thwumping off the cookie sheet onto the counter. The house smells like bread. This is good and this is fun.

I’ve alway thought expensive perfume smelled like bug spray. I wish it smelled like bread.

photo

RAW MEAT

plastic gloveI’m teaching my daughter to mix raw meat with her bare hands.

“I guess we’re doing the challenging part first,” Coco says. “When it squishes out between your fingers and comes pus-ing out. Yech.” We’re cooking, side by side. She wears disposable gloves; I don’t. She’s 21 and doesn’t quite know how to cook, at least not anymore than most people her age, but her situation is more complicated. She’s five months into eating disorder treatment—two-and-a-half months at the Renfrew Center in Dallas, two-and-a-half months back home.

I was looking forward to having her back home, safe and sound, and she said she came home for support and “to build a relationship with y’all.” Well, here’s what we did instead: yell, snipe and snit at each other. Our disagreements were minor, but also major. I don’t even want to go into it because she’s sitting right here and we both fear another argument. Yesterday she finally decided she’d had enough and began packing to go back to Dallas, where people know the meaning of the word “support.” We were all very adult about it and said our goodbyes.

But while she was packing I had a little fantasy. She would stay ten more days, giving me time to prove that I actually could help her with something. Maybe not the unconditional acceptance she wanted, but something concrete. Never mind why I’m so conditional or growing someone a vegetable or s ewing them a quilt comes so much more naturally to me. I proposed ten days of teaching her to cook a few things. She wrote up a contract. We will clean as we go. We will argue according to some dusty old marriage counseling rules I found around the house. We will make food that she likes, but according to my high-fallutin’ rules of unprocessed food and maximum flavor. When she leaves, she’ll have lots of frozen food to take home with her. I hope. In another life, I would have been one of those moms who ran after trains yelling “wait, wait—you forgot the salt for the hard-boiled eggs!”

Day One: black beans simmer in the crockpot, on their way to becoming three different meals. Then we start the meatloaf. Coco remembers eating it a long time ago—back when I cooked meat more often and we lived in a cold climate in a little log house built by the Womens Army Corps. She had a Louise Brooks haircut and was just starting her collection of marbles. We had our food adventures. Once, my Dad brought over a Christmas pudding and instructed me to heat some brandy to pour over it, which I did, in a leaded crystal glass in the microwave. When I opened the door, huge blue fames shot out. Coco says I screamed “holy shit!” It’s a fond memory for her.

The original meatloaf recipe came from my Mom’s I Hate to Cook Book, a book even longer gone than my mother herself. I don’t remember any exact amounts, but with Coco’s help, I translate  “2 glugs of Worcestershire” into “2 tablespoons of Worcestershire” and finally into “2 glug-glugs of Worcestershire,” because that’s how Worcestershire sounds, she says.

ED doesn’t want her to cook. (ED, as in eating disorder. Read Jenni Schaeffer’s Life Without Ed if you’re ready to understand.) “If I’m restricting then I only eat my safe foods, things ED has determined will not let me gain weight,” Coco says. “That’s not experimental at all. When I’m bingeing, it doesn’t matter what the food tastes like because that’s not why I’m eating. If I cook something for myself, I’m very aware of the food and ED doesn’t like that. He says I might as well just have fast food.”

ED believes that mixing raw meat with your hands is messy and dirty and you’ll get sick. James Beard, however, thought it was the way to go.

So here we sit, waiting for the oven timer to ding.

ROCKET’S RULES OF ORDER

Louise took this fine picture of my dog Rocket.

noble rocket

It’s the only picture in which he doesn’t look taxidermied. Rocket is an Australian stumpy-tail cattle dog mutt. He came here nearly three years ago, about six months after Gumbo died. I was working in the garage and he showed up, stared at me and sat down. How he became mine is a long story, the short version of which is: here I am again, being supervised by a herding dog whose view of life is unambiguous.

ROCKET’S RULES OF ORDER

Stand in front of the door so they can’t get out.

Stand in front of the door so they can’t get in.

Stare. Pay close attention.

Be alert. Take a lap around the perimeter.

Always come right back.

If you get a job, WORK.

You only get one cookie, but you get it every day.

Be just nice enough.

Herd your annoyances into a corner and make them STAY.

You fought for the tennis ball. Now KEEP the goddamn tennis ball.

You need more exercise than most people can understand.

You will always circle back to the thing that fascinates and/or repels you. Until you eat it or someone throws it out or another dog steals it, it’s not over. Even if you can’t see it because it rolled under the couch, it’s still there.

Check on the children.If anyone tries to mess with them, MOVE HIM OUT OF THE YARD.

You had more fun when you were a puppy.

You may be an older dog, but you like new tricks.

What’s the point of learning a trick if no one wants to see it?

You look fine. You look like you.

A dog is not a pacifist. Life involves the occasional violent incident. Not that you can’t be strategic.

You are not afraid to die, unlike your humans.

GRATITUDE, SHMATITUDE

“If you’re alive you’ve got to flap your arms and legs, you’ve got to jump around a lot, for life is the very opposite of death, and therefore you must at very least think noisy and colorfully, or you’re not alive.”–Mel Brooks

Liz Scanlon, who wrote All The World, a children’s picture book even more timeless and wonderful as Blueberries For Sal and so few others—in words AND art—is writing a month of gratitude in her blog, as are some of her writer friends.

Gratitude. Feh! A really good cheeseburger or someone to rub my head when I’m having a migraine, maybe, but the brief miracle of our short time on earth? It doesn’t make me grateful. It pisses me off. At the let’s-all-go-around-the-table-and-say-why-we’re-grateful moment this past Thanksgiving, I was tongue-tied. Thank God we were eating at Rabbi Johanna’s house, which meant the interruptions were hilarious and sacrilegious, and my turn never came.

Let’s be clear: I have one of the top ten wonderful lives. I’m unattractively ungrateful. My mother would be appalled. My father would point out how many types of mustard there are in the world, not to mention caviar and bodies of water, so why the bad attitude?

Yet I persist. My best anti-gratitude strategy—my go-to negative tape loop–is no one understands me. And truly, at my most self-loathing moments, no one does.  No one ever says “damn right, Robin, you suck in so very many ways!” Instead, they understand me at Thanksgiving when I adore the stuffing and wonder why we don’t get to eat it more often. I’m grateful for that, actually. Another thing: planning how to eat more stuffing in the year ahead is fun. Unlike, say, thinking of new reasons why I shouldn’t have started writing fiction. As Dr. Seuss said: “These things are fun, and fun is good.” (Stuffing, he meant, not misery.)

Hey–why don’t I ever tell Mel Brooks how much I love him for writing a very good Broadway musical in his late 70s and having so much fun with it? Or for the words at the top of this blog? Thank you for being alive, Mel Brooks, for being full noise and color! So many kinds of mustard in the world! May you live long enough to taste them all.

SCENE FOR MY DAUGHTER AUGUSTA, AN ACTRESS

Curtain opens on small kitchen, glass door to backyard smudged with dog nose prints, bright Mexican oilcloth on table. Dirty dishes and a  vase of sunflowers. Covered dish with melted butter oozing out the sides. This is AUSTIN, TEXAS, 1952, summer. Radio announcer cries: Oh, it’s a hot one! Gonna be over 100 again for the 14th day in a row! Music begins. Western swing.

LYRICS: Honey honey honey, oh won’t ya love me all the time?

Willowy blond girl, about 12, wanders on from stage right, opens icebox door, stands staring.

VOICE OFFSTAGE, screaming: Shut that thing unless YOU wanna pay the electric bill! (GIRL selects one peach, eating it in tiny bites as she wanders the kitchen, picking up common household items and examining them as if they are brand new inventions.)

GIRL: Now this is a garlic press! Saves all that chopping and dicing time for housewives the world over! And this—this is one of those egg-salad-making thingies. It cuts a hardboiled egg up into eensy beensy bits! Then all you do is add—wait—

She runs to the icebox, riffles its contents, emerges with a large jar—

Miracle Whip!

VOICE OFFSTAGE: Over my dead body!

GIRL: Oops. Hellman’s Real Mayonnaise. (Whispering) We’ll go ahead and use Miracle Whip! She’ll never know the difference! (GIRL waltzes with Miracle Whip.) One-two-three, one-two-three, won’t you come and dance with me! One-two-three, one-two-three, la-de-dah, la-de-dee!

VOICE OFFSTAGE (plaintively): Amy Lou. Amy Lou! Is this entirely necessary?

GIRL (stifling giggles): Is this entirely necessary? Hee hee hee!

VOICE: Amy Lou. Honey? Okay?

GIRL: I don’t hear nothin’. I don’t hear nothin’!

VOICE (obediently): Oh. Sorry. (Typewriter clacks, stopping and starting in the usual manner. GIRL continues dancing, but silently, stopping only to force the peach pit through the neck of the flower vase. Typewriter continues.)

GIRL: Mom! Are you just writing the alphabet again? Are you? You better write that story. You better start.

VOICE: (plaintive again) Dang it, Amy Lou. . . (typewriter begins again, this time far more hesitant. It is the real thing this time: words on paper. Amy Lou listens for a moment, smiles, hops around the table on one leg, loses her balance momentarily. The vase falls over, does not break, water runs slowly across the oilcloth and onto the floor.)

VOICE: What was that?

GIRL: Never you mind, Mombo! (She steps in the water, examines her foot, suddenly draws herself into perfect posture and marches downstage like an injured soldier, dragging the wet foot behind her, stopping just short of toppling into the orchestra pit.) I love my life, ladies and gentleman. It is a beautiful summer day and I love my life.

HERE AND THERE WITH MRS. NOSYPANTS

We all know the dangers of gossip. It causes damage that can never be. . .disassembled, or whatever that verb is. The point is, gossip neither builds bridges for peace nor raises awareness of fibromyalgia. Gossip is an evil up with which I will not put, and neither should you.

The following info is not gossip, but that other thing.

I don’t know about you, but my head is full of yammering weasels who exist to offer 24/7 critiques. Dr. Albert Ellis — the famous nutbag who invented cognitive behavioral therapy — advises using piercing logic to debate the weasels, but Atticus Finch-of-brain-chemistry I will never be. The only thing that shuts up the weasels is gossip. Or that other thing.

So here’s what I do: pretend to be busy in the driveway and pay attention the stuff going on in the neighborhood. Sources within my own household are often able to corroborate and/or expand.

Item: Odysseus Kermsey, age 12, continues to spend his non-academic hours traveling to the convenience store. He never goes alone. You can hear the assorted wheels of his various posses (possi?) from several blocks away. Skateboard by bike by scooter they come — those two 13-year-old girls with the streaks in their hair, the first-grade boy who tried to build a fort out of an old Christmas tree over on Bluecrest Drive. It’s hard to gauge the relationship between Odysseus and these assorted people, and the day those cousins, or whoever they were, came running after him, each wearing one enormous black shoe, was particularly confusing. But not uninteresting. In the spring of 2010 Odysseus rolled by and said “what up.” His voice had become low and gravelly. Hormones were in the house.

A bandit broke into a woman’s car — well, it wasn’t locked — and hung a nice pair of women’s underwear over her rearview mirror. They were clean. A debate erupted on the neighborhood listserv. If you can imagine, some people thought this “assault” was funny! Well, it wasn’t. It was menacing, with definite sexist overtones. Someone may have asked whether the underpants were Hanky Pankies. That person may have been told it was none of her beeswax! Even if Hanky Pankies are the only underwear that fit every set of haunches, in perfect comfort, with no VPL!

The bag worms are back. They live in houses they built themselves — and you can do this too, according to the latest issue of Mother Earth News — and those houses look like bags. They must be destroyed by Francisco — who recently got a giant new pickup truck with duallies — or they will, in turn, destroy the pecan trees. Francisco takes time out from this job to survey my yard and cry too much! Too much plants! Too much weeds! Too much morning Gloria! This is how I found out the morning glories I planted three years ago have finally sprouted.

Today I expect breaking developments concerning the three guys who hurl medicine balls at each other on the tennis court. It’s worth noting that the tennis court, along with everyone and everything else of importance, is located in my zip code, not in my head.

LET US NOW PRAISE SJ PERELMAN

You wanna know what’s wrong with this world? No one knows who SJ Perelman is anymore. And no one likes a snob who quotes obscure writers, so I don’t, but it’s hard work to stifle myself that way. I’m forced to stand silently, my jaws akimbo, because SJ Perelman loved words like “akimbo.” He gave his characters names like Akimbo; Akimbo, I see now, would be a good name for a 1930s movie producer. Having written several Marx Brothers movies, Perelman hated Hollywood, which he thought of as infested with juice bars, chiropractors and Tarot readers. I don’t mind any of those institutions, but I idolize SJ Perelman. I imitate him. I’ll imitate him right now.

Marcus Aurelius Akimbo alighted from his Pierce Arrow, a starlet in one arm and a jeraboam of Maalox in the other, only three hours late for our meeting.

He once described himself as “button-cute, rapier-thin.” Reading him is like getting on a bizarrely enthusiastic, self-mocking train to conjecture-land, with stops in absurdville. Here’s an excerpt from one of his stories about leaving New York for Bucks County, PA:

When I first settled down on a heap of shale in the Delaware Valley, I too had a romantic picture of myself. For about a month I was a spare, sinewy frontiersman in fringed buckskin, with crinkly little lines about the eyes and a slow laconic drawl…. After I almost blew off a toe cleaning an air rifle, though, I decided I was more the honest rural type. I started wearing patched blue jeans [and] mopped my forehead with a red banana (I found out later it should have been a red bandanna)…. One day, while stretched out on the porch, I realized I needed only a mint julep to become a real dyed-in-the-wool, Seagrams V.V.O. Southern planter…. I sent to New York for a broad-brimmed hat and a string tie, and at enormous expense trained the local idiot to fan me with a palmetto leaf.

Here’s a link to Richard Corliss’s Time magazine story from which I ripped that quote.

WWSPD? Yes, what would SJ Perelman do? In my own  grommet-cute, AK47-stocky way, I strive to do the same.

PROJECT AMERICAN RUNWAY IDOL MILLIONAIRE

Dear Betsy,

Integral to every author’s publicity “platform” is a smoldering photo of the writer after he has finished a 3-day stint of sleepless novelizing, but before he has tortuous, intellectual sex with you, the reader. But as a woman, comma, I resent and/or reject that image. (Even though my name is Robin and once someone wrote  my Westword editor demanding that she remove “that schmuck Mr. Chotzinoff.”) As for  female author photo options, I don’t have a tiny triangular face alive with bird-like curiosity, or, alternatively, a whole lot of shiny hair and cleavage. (Since Weider Publications hasn’t signed me yet, my not-too-shabby lats are irrelevent.) Yet I’m not afraid to dirty my feet in the sordid waters of self-promotion! My new “brand” is hot off the presses, or the platen, or whatever. Check out this indelible image!

robinrabbiYes! This is me leading a Rosh Hashanah service last week, premiering the 21st-century Baba-Yaga-in-a-prayer-shawl look! Please start promoting me as “an Eastern European witch,” “the amateur cantor with the Brillo-rific tresses” and/or “neither Hansel nor Gretel’s favorite person, but you’ll love her.” And if those What Not to Wear people call, slam down the phone. We need to stay on message.